Yosemite Love

In a word, Yosemite was a stunner. It was such an incredible trip – the sights, the scale, the variety, the hiking, the rock climbers, the infrastructure of the park – all of it.

We left Barrett Cove early on a Thursday morning and made the two-or-so hour journey to the entrance of the park. On the way we stopped in the historic little town of Coulterville for a late breakfast and continued onward toward the West entrance to the park. The road was winding and narrow, initially climbing and descending barren hillsides but eventually brining us through thick forests dotted with small farms and homesteads that appeared in the middle of nowhere.

Eventually, after tailing the slowest RV ever for half an hour, we reached a full-on highway that sprung up out of the blue. We knew we were getting close. The road climbed again, twisted left and right, and became more scenic, with gradual slopes morphing into sharp cliffs. Dense woods thinned out to reveal distant mountain views and roadside hills left punctured with blackened polls – leftover trees in various stages of wildfire recovery.

We entered the park in the middle of a small sequoia grove that we, unfortunately, couldn’t see from the road. In covid times, reservations are required to enter the park, which we luckily had with our overnight accommodations. As we approached, we passed signs marking a 60-minute wait, then 30, then 15 – signs that were clearly hold-outs from before covid restrictions were put in place. We have never had to wait more than 20 minutes or so getting into a National Park, and that was at Badlands National Park - our first one. We cruised right in and made our way through the mountains.

Much like our drive through Mount Rainier National Park, everywhere we looked in Yosemite was picture worthy. I finally insisted that Alex pull over so we could take it in. I couldn’t not get out and marvel. I hopped out of the truck and walked to the edge of the parking lot to find a drop-off view of enormous stones piled atop one another with granite mountains rising in the distance beyond a carpet of lush pines. My eye found the landmarks - Half Dome and a peek of El Cap – both of which rose in a gracious welcome. It was incredible.

We hiked around some, jumping from boulder to boulder and pausing to try to capture the sheer beauty of our surroundings. We then drove a few more miles to Tenaya Lake for a picnic lunch and a true hike. A classic mountain lake, Tenaya’s shores quickly fade from tan to yellow, green to aqua, reflecting the pure blue of the sky above and mirroring the soft granite peaks of its surrounds. It was a beautiful day, and the lake was an attraction for hammocks and their dozing inhabitants, kayakers, fellow hikers, and a few brave water-waders.

Thankfully able to fight off some early-hike whining, we managed to successfully hike most of the way around the lake. Audrey fell asleep in the ergo and Elsie and Willa rallied to make it the whole way. They were disappointed by the relative ease of the trail. “We’ll challenge you next time”, we told them. Little did they know what was to come…

With the day’s only scheduled hike behind us, we ventured back the way we came and made our way to the famed Yosemite Valley. Rolling down the mountain into the valley, I was struck with how built-up and well-maintained the park’s infrastructure is. It makes me happy that we are caring for our national parks, allowing so many visitors to experience the country’s most impressive natural wonders.

At one of the first clearings in the Valley, we pulled over to get a good look with the binoculars of the climbers ascending El Cap. Words cannot express the enormity of the granite rock face and the feat of extreme sport for anyone brave and fit enough to scale it. We have seen the documentary and read the book recounting Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honold’s near-miraculous climbs, but to see the rock in person makes it all the more marvelous.

We continued to Curry Village and found our canvas tent that would be home for the next few days. During check in, the staff was repeatedly adamant that we not eat or drink ANYTHING in the tent, and no toothpaste, deodorant, or ANY personal care products with scent should be kept there, they said. If we dare tempt fate we would most certainly end up with a bear in our room or at the very least, mice or bats. Yikes! I slept lightly that night.

Dinner meant a walk to the pizza place down the path, followed by a rousing game of Camp – the animal trivia game – as we huddled together under the lantern light. Camp has become a mainstay for family game night after we found it in a Yellowstone gift shop.

The next morning, we woke up, fueled up on yogurt and granola, and quickly hit the trails – anticipating crowds would soon flock to the well-trafficked trail that we planned on taking. It started off about 45 degrees and cold in the shade, so we had layers with sweatshirts, hats and even mittens.

We always bring our biggest backpack and the ergo on long hikes. Alex usually ends up with all the water bottles, layers and snacks in the backpack, a load that tends to be heavier than the toddler who is perched on my back part time.

Our plan was to hike the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls, or some combination of those routes. This trail is one of the most famous and popular hikes in Yosemite. We soon learned that the trail is also distinctly challenging. Despite starting on a paved path, technically accessible by strollers and wheelchairs, the uphill slope is no joke. After a mile or so we reached a bridge where we could see the waterfall in the distance. From there on the trail was dirt and less traveled, but no less steep!

Although we had looked forward to the famed 600-step trip up to Vernal Fall, the stairs were closed for maintenance! We were one day too early. At that point we had to make a decision – turn back and make it a healthy 3-4 mile hike, or keep going and see how far we can push it? Could we really make it another 2.4 miles – one way – to Nevada Falls?

By now, I bet you can guess what we chose. We kept going, of course. It continued to be an uphill climb, with switchbacks and rocky cliffs. The girls gradually shed layers as it heated up. We also started to encounter hazy skies and thickening wildfire smoke. Apparently, the smoke is commonplace in the late summer and fall; something Yosemite regulars have come to expect.

Alex and I kept checking in, wondering - is now the right time to turn around? Since we knew that once we turned around, the entire 2nd half would be downhill and we were getting closer and closer to the falls, we decided to press on. Indeed, we made it all the way to Nevada Falls! Other than knowing we hit the half-way point, the arrival was sort of underwhelming. The falls had slowed to a trickle and were further down the path than we were willing to trek.

Nonetheless, we took a much needed rest at the top, shed some more layers (mostly Audrey) and then started out downhill. It was amazing how fast we made it down (especially when Elsie reaaallly had to go to the bathroom and practically ran more than a mile downhill).

To celebrate our successful 7 (!) mile hike, we pretended to be fancy and sprung for happy hour at the fanciest digs in Yosemite Valley, the Ahwahnee. We really didn’t fit in with our sweaty hiking clothes and excitable children, but somehow, SOMEHOW, Alex and I still enjoyed a drink on the patio.

We made it through another night in the tent (although barely, since some Gen Z-ers thought a canvas tent in Yosemite made a great spot for a birthday rager) and were sad to pack up and leave the next morning.

But of everywhere we’ve been, we are most likely to return to Yosemite. A parents-only hiking trip, perhaps? Don’t mind if we do!